I spent the last week living in a rural village a few hours North (I think) of Chiang Mai called Ban Ton Chok (or something like that). And I had a great time! I will blog about how great of a time I had later.
Right now I must press on to cover an urgent issue that is very near and dear to my heart… women’s rights. Yesterday Pegeen, Olivia and I ventured up our local mountain on a pilgrimage to Chiang Mai’s most famous temple, Doi Suthep, only to find a few miles in that we were trapped on the precipice of what was clearly a “No Skirt Zone.”
We debated for a while about whether this sign meant no skirts at all, or perhaps just no mini-skirts, in light of the fact that we seemed to be nearing a smaller temple. I am ashamed to admit that I had a fleeting urge to leave behind Olivia, the only skirt-wearer, on the trail where she surely would have befallen a swift death via tigers eating her.
Ultimately, it dawned on us that this sign was intended for all women, probably even women who were wearing blue and grey/orange athletic shorts.
How could it have taken us so long to recognize this sign for what it was – a misogynistic ploy to spoil our fun! A thinly veiled symbol of systematized female oppression in the modern age!
Standing in the Thai jungle, staring down this literal and proverbial fork in the road, I felt the struggles of all the civil rights activists who came before me weighing heavily on my shoulders. Being the crusaders for gender equality that we are, it seemed there was only ever one path for us. We had to venture into the NSZ (“No Skirt Zone”).
Also the other path was too narrow and completely covered in leaves, plus we had already woken up at 8:00 am on a Sunday and walked like 3 or 2 miles straight up and were not about to turn around without seeing at least one temple.
At first our steps were timid, and then emboldened by the reality that no one dared stop us from marching onwards (including the other women visiting the temple). Once it became clear that our brave defiance against NSZs everywhere had worked, the rest of our day was tinged with the special kind of magic that can only come from true acts of feminism.
Of all the tourists that visit Chiang Mai and Doi Suthep, very few actually make the 9 or 10 kilometer hike. Instead, most prefer to drive to the top of the mountain and in doing so they miss the very special temple a little under halfway up that we enjoyed even more than Doi Suthep. There were only a few visitors at this temple, which was perched on the edge of a waterfall overlooking the city, and whose grounds contain countless small, special details including rainbow trees and painted shutters.
Of course, only a minority of visitors could access this temple prior to our arrival due to its status as a NSZ. On behalf of myself, Pegeen and Olivia I would like to say: you’re welcome world, for sharing this gem of a temple with the other 51% of the global population.
I’m not exactly sure how it happened (I wasn’t lead hiker at the time), but shortly after leaving the small formerly NSZ temple we lost the woodsy trail we had been following and ended up on a windy, cement road where we remained for the next 4 or so miles, all the way to Doi Suthep. Given that we were the only hikers on the road, and given the sheer volume of tour busses and giggling tourists that whizzed by us on the way up I expected that most people at Doi Suthep would express their admiration for the three strong, independent women who had steadily trudged alongside a constant stream of motorcycles and taxis. However, when we reached the top of the mountain and began to climb (read: crawl) up Doi Suthep’s 300-some steps, most other tourists seemed rather alarmed by the amount of sweat that was rolling off our backs onto the temple’s gleaming golden walls.
Doi Suthep would be beautiful in any conditions, but there is no way for me to describe how the temple, which is a staple of our daily mountain view from campus, looked after we made the trek straight from the front door of our apartment building. On the way back from our rural home stay on Saturday, our Thai teacher turned to Pegeen, Olivia and I and declared, “St. Lawrence students are adventurous!” He is right, of course. Little does he know St. Lawrence students are also the reason for the abolition of NSZs.